i Diversi tipi di Joystick nel Mondo

[pucci]

trovato interessante articolo online (autore: kowal© traduzione: Pap)

Regional divisions/groups of controllers

We often hear about dividing controllers into 2 groups: American and Japanese. Regional divisions is a kind of artificial thing and not very accurate but still it is widely used in gamers environment, that is why I’m going to explain it a little. Divisions are based on the circular opinions about the most popular, or sometimes most easily obtainable, models in a certain region. But sometimes manufacturers try to “break out” of these divisions by making different models with different parameters, Spanish iL is a good example. Many people distinguish joysticks by dividing them to Japanese or American ones just by looking at the top. Japanese have balltop, American is a battop. But when we put a battop on a Japanese joystick it won’t magically change into an American one (the same in other direction). It’s not the look that divides joysticks into different regional groups, it’s the technical parameters and solutions. And that should be the only aspects when dividing joysticks into regional groups. If you want to make regional divisions it would look something like that:

American Parts

american.jpg

The first joystick which resembles nowadays American joysticks was the WICO Conical Joystick (to be more precisely it was one of its later upgraded versions: WICO Conical Joystick With Improved Actuator). It had almost all of the typical characteristics common in modern American constructions. The joystick vanished from the market and WICO was taken over with all its patents by HAPP. To be honest, there isn’t such a thing like American joysticks now. Most popular models in this group like HAPP Competition, HAPP Super are made in Europe by iL (Spain) or made in US on European license (eventually we can also add cheap rip-offs to that list). Those joysticks are just widely common on American market, they are so common that most people don’t know where they are being made. The joysticks have a square or circle restrictor. Square-like actuators are also very common in American joysticks, they give joystick a bit of square rotation. All sorts of springs are available, from soft (<220g) through medium (220-300g) to hard (>350g). But mostly used now are the medium and hard ones. Joysticks have engage on average speed, big throw is usually the result of a wide angle tilt and custom of mounting the joystick in a wooden panel (which needs a longer stick). The most known construction of that type is Eurojoystick (Tear Drop Handle) also known as HAPP Competition in the US. American Joysticks have conical or tubular pivots which is why the center faster and “stiffer”. Despite their long throw they tend to be a little faster than Japanese joysticks when regarding many combinations. One of the benefits that should be marked is the intuitive handling of American joysticks. Beginners will find no problems when playing with those.

Buttons have a palpable “click” and they are based on classic Cherry microswitches with vertically placed microswitch. The plunger has a concave shape. But modern American buttons are now more like the flat PSL-L-CV ones, thanks to gamers likings.

Japanese parts

japanese.jpg

Japanese parts are common in their compact dimensions. Usually joysticks have square or octagonal restrictors. Springs are soft, from 100g to 300g max. They also tend to have late engage against the throw which is moderate because of the short shafts (Japanese joysticks are always mounted on metal panels) and the angle is almost like in American constructions. The most important difference in construction is the hemispherical pivot which gives the joysticks a specific dynamism and handling. Movement of the joystick is very smooth and symmetrical. It is a lot easier to input neutrals and they are very precise. But because of their pivot they lose most of their speed, running and dashing is much harder to input and takes more time to actually input it. Restrictors are easy detachable plates which gives gamers lots of possibilities to personalize joysticks. But generally speaking, Japanese controllers require that the gamer is at least good at handling the joystick. Typical joysticks that go in Japanese division are JLF, JLW, LS-32, LS-40.

Japanese buttons are flat or convex and they don’t tend to give a palpable “signal” after engaged..

European parts

european.jpg

Typical European joysticks haven’t really gone “abroad” and they are the least known ones among gamers. Those joysticks have the so-called short throw which makes them very fast. They require a lot of skill from gamers who use them or they can be used in simple games (no complicated combinations/movements) where speed is essential. Rotation is determined by square or octagonal restrictors. Medium springs within the 250-350g range. Typical joysticks from European division are Suzo Universal STC, Competition Pro, Magnetic Joystick.

Buttons have a palpable “click” and they are based on classic microswitches like Saia-Burgess X3 or Cherry. Plunger is usually concave or flat.

Korean parts

korean.jpg

Korean joysticks are easily distinguished, they all have almost identical outer construction: tubular rising from the base and distinctive battop. Joysticks have round or a bit “squareish” rotation and they are not equipped with springs. Centering is done by rubber ring with force about 200-300g. Rubber gives them distinctive handling, easy neutrals but rather fast direction changing. Those joysticks just throw themselves into gamers hands and they give a lot more possibilities to manipulate and time movements. They are easy to handle just like American ones. But their overall assembly and parameters are very inaccurate. Late engage and very long throw. Most popular in Korean division are Fanta and CWL303.

Buttons are flat and they doesn’t have a palpable click after being engaged (but if there is any it’s very quiet).

[kyoday]

qualcuno sa se hanno un nome particolare questi joystick senza viti ? http://www.arcadeshop.de/popup_image.php?pID=565

[mat2020]

Solo io non riesco a vedere le immagini?

[Ruttolomeo]

Non si vedono le immagini

[Kernel]

Le immagini si sono corrotte quando tempo fa c'è stata la migrazione del forum vs. nuovo host. Andrebbero riuploadate, ma purtroppo non tutte sono disponibili/recuperabili.

[fabricade]

Questo post sembrava interessasante.
Ma quell'utente pucci non le ha più per riuplodarle?
O magari ricreiamo il post da 0 e si rifà tutto anche migliorando?

Solo un idea

[Kuroshin]

Ecco.. bel post, proprio quello che mi serviva sigh.
Scusate la domanda forse idiota... qualche (molto...) tempo fa avevo comprato tramite mercatino 2 joy che in teoria dovevano essere ad otto vie.
Me ne sono arrivati 2 che sono esattamente come quelli che gia' avevo... l'utente poi non mi ha piu' risposto e amen.

Domanda: il joy a 8 vie non dovrebbe avere tipo una mascherina sotto? Da me si va pazzi per Kick and run... ed effettivamente le diagonali sono un casino.
Con un joy 8 vie si risolverebbe la cosa?
Ma poi... non e' che basta questa "mascherina"?

Grazie delle info.
Kuro

[rufus]

probabile basti un restrittore ma cosa ne sappiamo noi esattamente che joystick hai?

[Kuroshin]

Rufus certo che hai fatto proprio una bella domanda
Boh! Effettivamente io davo per scontato che un joy fosse un joy... ma sono diverse tra 4 vie ed 8 vie? come li distinguo?

[rufus]

no, solo il restrittore fa la differenza tra 2/4/8 vie
Ma se non so che modello/marca di joystick hai non so che restrittore consigliarti, sempre che si possa montare

[Kuroshin]

Rufus,
beh hai gia' risposto a meta' problema!
Ok... una di queste sere prendo coraggio e riapro il cab e vedo.
Casomai non dovessi tornare vivo da questa esperienza, e' stato bello!

[Luigi 72]

nei joy tipo edierre e similari a micro pieghi le lamelle dei micro e fai le diagonali

[Kuroshin]

Luigi,
ho appena aperto un joy amiga della Alberici e mi chiedevo proprio come mai fossero piegate le lamelle allora la ghiera/mascherina in plastica non serve ad un ciufolo?

[Luigi 72]

[quote=Kuroshin post_id=308329 time=1486499828 user_id=1610]
Luigi,
ho appena aperto un joy amiga della Alberici e mi chiedevo proprio come mai fossero piegate le lamelle allora la ghiera/mascherina in plastica non serve ad un ciufolo?
[/quo
sono noleggiatore da molti anni diciamo vengo dalla vecchia scuola e sui joy per fare le diagonali abbiamo sempre fatto in questo modo ciao

[pucci]

ho ricaricato le immagini

[Tox Nox Fox]

Ottimo Pucci!