Heroes 5 2020 in 1 game board

[nasoftz]

Hi,
My board still gets power, I'll take some pictures and explain in more detail what happened,incase you have any ideas on how to repair it.
I do all my editting and reading of the SD card using a Linux operating system on my laptop. My heroes image is accessible just fine on my laptop. I have found the programs to read ext file formats on Windows to not always work properly. What opperating system are you using on your computer?
I got frustrated with using Windows to read/write Linux filesystem, so my laptop dual boots Linux and windows.
This is the program I use to edit the games database.
https://sqlitebrowser.org

ops ... it's still power up...? than better to check all pcb's voltage regulators and diodes

[Akira84]

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id= ... _5Hks97STH
If it works the above is a link to my Google drive with pictures of my board. Was not sure how to upload photos.
The j38 connector on my board, has 3 pins , two of the pins have a jumper on them. I believe it's the equivalent of a power switch, as without the jumper the board does not turn on.
A loose wire touched the j38 connector and I believe connected the empty pin to the jumpered pins, saw a small spark, puff of smoke and smelled a burning smell.
Now when I power on the board, 2 red leds on the board stay lit, one blinks , which I think is normal.
But all I get on my monitor is some pink colored lines.
Prior to this, I would get the same colored lines if I had no SD card in it or the wrong SD card.

[Akira84]

Here is some random info on the gpio for my board, the jamma edge, and gpio pins are both connected to the J11 spot on my board. Looking at other orange pi boards, J11 is used for a camera interface.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1elOrpL ... p=drivesdk
So that is probably why the controls don't work on the non jamma board.

[Akira84]

Here is a zip file of the mame37 folder and files, and a modified games.db file with the 11 ROMs added to it.
They should display, be playable and have a video preview.
Extract the zip, copy the contents of the mame37 folder to the empty mame37 folder, make a back up of your games.db file, then replace it with my modified file and it should work.
I have no way to test it but it should work.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id= ... VOJOz9TAqd

[6buttonmash]

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id= ... _5Hks97STH
If it works the above is a link to my Google drive with pictures of my board. Was not sure how to upload photos.
The j38 connector on my board, has 3 pins , two of the pins have a jumper on them. I believe it's the equivalent of a power switch, as without the jumper the board does not turn on.
A loose wire touched the j38 connector and I believe connected the empty pin to the jumpered pins, saw a small spark, puff of smoke and smelled a burning smell.
Now when I power on the board, 2 red leds on the board stay lit, one blinks , which I think is normal.
But all I get on my monitor is some pink colored lines.
Prior to this, I would get the same colored lines if I had no SD card in it or the wrong SD card.

Firstly everything im about to say do powered off until i say or it may also be you that ends up not working right (humans dont like mains electricity)

Look around that jumper, you are correct it does act as a power switch, on my board (it came in one of the typical 2 player pandora metal desktop boxes) i do not have a jumper but a connector which uses the same 2 pins which is connected via 2 wires to a on/off switch at the back. You want to make sure it is not burnt in anyway and is still soldered properly to the board. (prod very lightly with tweezers or similar the soldered pins on the bottom of the board to check its still soldered if its not you will see movement). If it is still soldered and there are no burning marks. Then...........

Move on to the DC power jack on your board, check that for any signs of burn and bad solder joints, make sure its still attached as it should be if that is also fine Then.........

Go back to the jumper, is it a removable jumper (a bit like what was on the back of old IDE hard disks and what some motherboards still have)??? If it is removable, take it off the board to expose the pins more. Then........

Find something that has a very small metal tip one end and plastic, rubber or similar the other end (a very tiny tipped screwdriver would be ideal or failing that a bit of thin wire that is insulated and only has a tiny amount of wire exposed at each end)

touch the 2 pins the jumper was connected to with the tip of the screwdriver (or your chosen implement) and while holding it there plug the board into the PSU... MAKE SURE your hands are not touching anything metal (including any metal bit of the screwdriver, wire or whatever you are using).......... Does it then work?

If yes congrats you have discovered the Chinese person that made your board used a jumper with stupidly thin metal/wire in it and what has happened is when you shorted it, it has broke the connection in that jumper. To fix that i suggest fitting a switch (or you can bodge it and bridge both points/pins on the board where that jumper was with a bit of solder)

If it still does not work, the next thing i would try is re-making/burning your image file to the SDcard (preferably try a different SDcard to what you were using, its possible your SDcard has got fried in some way when your accident happened)

If it still does not work i personally would then start getting out the volt meter and checking readings both where the power enters and at the jumper/switch points on the board, from there i would check the 2 silver capacitors (one is right next to the jumper on your board and then there is another just above it. If you then still have no joy id start to think the worse and that a chip or similar/important/not easy to get hold of component has cooked itself

PS..........
I can solve the mystery of why your board has to use an SDcard...... Your board does not have any EMMC/Onboard storage on it. The chip for that is missing from your board, it is located on my board right above the SDcard slot. On your board the space is unpopulated (a white rectangle with a white + sign in the middle of it, right next to that uboot switch)

PPS....
Nice job with the TTL soldering, planning on doing some USB debugging as well are you


@nasoftz
I tried your holding the coin and 1 player buttons down when powering up my box, and even tapping them together, alternately but no luck getting into that hidden chines menu on my board....... Really makes me damn well wonder what was being pressed now when it happened. Ive spent most of the day trying to do it again with various button presses and still can not get it again


PPPS............
Thanks to you both reading and replying with the info on the editor you use for the game.db file may have a play with that at the weekend to see what i can add from MAME

[Akira84]

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id= ... 4dySvYNNAm
The above link is a couple pictures of some components that look off.
One is an led that still works but looks like some possible bubbling around it.
Not sure what the other component is but it looks possibly melted or it was just malformed to start with.
The jumper is removable like a hard drive jumper but it is intact and still works.
Capacitor s test good in the circuit and are receiving 12 volts when plugged in.
Tried a couple SD cards still not working.
Are the lights on the Ethernet port supposed to be lit up? They are not lit up.
Tested random spots on the board for power, the spots that I thought should have power do.
Plugged the board into my computer to use as a USB encoder for the joystick s and that part still works.
Not sure what else to test, lots of surface mounted components and it's hard to trace any of circuit s.

On another note, you guys should try plugging your boards into a computer it should show up as 2 gamepads, check if all buttons and joysticks work. On mine even before the accident would not register all buttons, I think it was the coin and start buttons did not work, curious if they fixed that issue with either of your revision s. If they all do work on yours then it's an easy way to get your controls working on retrorange pi etc. You just use a male to male USB cord and plug your board into itself

[6buttonmash]

Picture 1 and 2 if that is the LED and it still lights up is probably fine, even if it did not light up i doubt that is the issue. From your picture there are basically just 2 traces on the board that run to that LED (assuming there are not more on the other side of the board) which will be to power it, the little resistor next to the LED just ensures it does not get too much power, if anything that would likely blow first and then take the LED with it.

Picture 3 and 4 if you are referring to the winbond chip is also probably ok though the soldering does not look the best (particularly the top 3 right pins as you look at the picture) you could if confident with a soldering iron have a go at reflowing the legs on that chip, take a picture after like you have been and zoom in to make sure nothing is bridged and then try the board again, personally though id guess the best i can just from the pics its probably ok just poorly soldered.

Ethernet lights on mine DO light up (one red one green LED) only when an Ethernet cable is plugged in. And sometimes temporarily at very first power on.

I have had another thought on why your board may not be working looking back at the old pics you uploaded........ When did you solder on the USB debug cable??? did you do that before or after the board failed? It may be worth checking that you have not bridged the 2 points to the little "uboot" switch/button when you were soldering. I do know for a fact if you hold that "uboot" button down when you power on the board does not boot and you sometimes get the weird pink screen you had, so could something to do with that be bridged/broken? Also with the board powered off try pressing that tiny uboot button a few times to make sure it still clicks/feels tactile.

My board from what i remember works ALMOST FULLY when plugged into a PC but the buttons are weirdly configured, button A, B, C for example rather than showing as something obvious like 1,2,3 show as something silly like button 5,8,2 <<< or other randomness, dont remember exactly what. P1 coin and start buttons register (again as some random number you would not expect) while for P2 coin/pause button and start only one of them worked properly (i dont remember which), if you pressed the other button then in windows device manager/controllers it would result in none of the other buttons working after pressing it. Id need to check more as beyond that i never bothered with it on my computer as i assumed it would just be a pain to use. Before i can recheck id have to buy a male usb to usb cable as the one that came with my system i gave away to a friend to use in his bar top arcade build. I also only have a windows system running at the moment so how that detects things may conflict/be different to what it does for you with a Linux computer. But yeah for me the 2p pause/coin/start button side of things like you does not work quite right from memory.

I do not have an orangepi to test it on though the usb to usb connecting of it is a good idea for people that want to run retroorangepi on the board I have a raspberry pi which ive tested it on previously and the stick and buttons when plugged in via the PS3/controller USB port to a raspberry pi using retropie/emulationstation did not work, i guess retropie on the raspberry pi does not have the drivers for it.

[nasoftz]

You just use a male to male USB cord and plug your board into itself

already tried doesn t work with retropie image but I m planning to make more test installing some alternative controller drivers on retropie setup
about your damaged board, looking at pictures of your board , if you do not see clear sign of damages and like you already suspect, the problem is probably first components near that jumper, check all of them around with a multimeter following the circuit.

[6buttonmash]

What i would personally do if i wanted to run Retrorangepi on the box and have no luck getting the controllers working for it due to driver issues, is buy some type of cheap USB encoder known to work on RaspberryPis, OrangePis, BannaPis, PCs and Android like this thing...

ZeroDelayBoard_grande.jpg

and in very simple terms do this mod...

buttonmodpan.jpg

After doing that you could plug the Grey cable into the back of the Pandora box on one of the normal USB Ports (The NON PS3 USB or whatever it is called on your version). You could also then connect it to a PC, Consoles and probably 99% of all small board computers available with no issues.

Would require some soldering or reconnector -ing / rewiring, but that would allow it to work in regular Pandora/Heroes Mode, also use Retrorangepi as and when you want and allow you to hook the stick up to other devices without driver issues in most cases. Not a perfect solution i grant but an easy one if willing to spend time doing wiring.

[cheezemasta]

Hello Everyone! I have recently purchased the "Heroes" board that states it is a 3d Pandora Games board when you boot it up. I've only been able to get it to recognize PS2 ISO's so far with the usb on the back. Is there a fairly easy way to add mame roms and possibly dreamcast type games etc to this? Here is a link to what my board looks like and the Heroes Bios from the menu screen! Thanks for any help!

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6y16bqrttoxc ... 6bT4a?dl=0